Restaurant Review: Catelli’s in Geyserville by Ron Skaar

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I remembered Mama. Nearly forty years ago, while visiting friends in Cloverdale, we were all graciously welcomed, (they by their first names), on our entry to Virginia “Mama” Catelli’s bustling establishment. That same warmth, exuberance and good food awaits guests today, at Catelli’s in Geyserville.

Across from the jammed big wood bar, the sweet hostess is helping a foursome, without a reservation on a Saturday night, find seating. There are dinning tables across from the bar where three huge “windows” open to the large middle dinning room. The gracious and airy space includes a third, more private party dinning area and a seasonal patio.

Booth seating tables line the walls of the large middle room, which is anchored by a long wood family style seating table. Kathryn, our server brings a glass of Portalupi, 2013 Pinot Noir along with warm baguette accompanied by fresh sun-dried tomato butter. She points out their large portions and helps steer the two of us to sharing a couple of starters and the daily pasta special.

A toast to a living landmark, filled with great food, wine and warm surroundings.

CATELLI’S 21047 Geyserville Ave. Geyserville, CA 95441 (707) 857-3471  www.mycatellis.com

The complete review and be found HERE on the Sonoma County Gazette website.

One perfect day in Geyserville, CA

Why go in summer: To kick it vine-side, and poolside, in low-key Alexander Valley.

Main drag: Geyserville Avenue is 2 blocks of Wild West-looking brick storefronts housing galleries, tasting rooms, and one especially tasty pizza parlor.

Looking for an actual geyser? Head about 25 miles southeast to Calistoga.

Dress code: Country casual. Leave the blazer and black dress at home.

What it has: Cows, character, and world-class Cabernet.

What it lacks: Luxe hotels. You’ll find those, plus Michelin-star restaurants, about 8 miles south in Healdsburg.

Complete Sunset article can be found HERE.

Week 5…Harvest 2014

9-24image copyOk…by now it is all a blur of processing grapes as they are picked, pressing the grapes that have turned into wine, and punch downs…ALWAYS punch downs. There are a couple things that distinguished this week from others at harvest…we got our new French oak barrels and we had rain…nothing stops harvest, not even rain in Sonoma County!

Week 4…Harvest 2014 – We Have WINE!

9:15image-1 copyWe have WINE! The first fruit, Pinot noir, to come into the winery has now evolved into wine! I noticed that the cap of grape skins was falling on a small fermenter yesterday morning. By the end of the day it was completely submerged and we had wine. It tastes very fresh, with tart cranberry and raspberry notes, deliciously refreshing! It will be pressed today and put into French oak barrels to rest for about 9 months before it is bottled.

We continued to receive and process Pinot noir fruit this week along with more Chardonnay and some Viognier. When the white grapes come into the winery they are immediately pressed and the juice is pumped into an enclosed tank where it settles over night. The next day the juice is racked off the settled solids and into either stainless steel barrels or French oak barrels for fermentation. The cellar sounds like it has multiple fish aquariums running with the consistent bubbling from the air locks on the barrels. The air locks allow the carbon dioxide created during fermentation to escape while keeping oxygen out.

9:15 copyMy biggest accomplishment this week was doing ALL of the punch downs on ALL the fermenters for midday. I am developing some definite muscles along with some blisters too and we aren’t even half way through harvest yet! The reward is knowing that we will make a good wine and the views from the top of the fermenters.

Week 3…Harvest 2014

9:7image-1A thrilling and exhausting week it was! I had some of my first 10 hour days and we saw the first obvious signs that fermentation has begun. Harvest is a big, messy chaos of receiving and processing fruit, managing fermenting fruit, cleaning incessantly, and still dealing with all the other daily tasks of a small winery such as bottling 100 cases of 2013 wine and cleaning 94 oak barrels.

The most exciting aspect of all this is the daily arrival of new grapes. We received and processed nearly 20 tons of grapes this week! As the black grapes come into the winery, the individual berries are removed from the stems and then they are placed into large vessels for fermentation. The grapes just hang out for a few days and then you begin to see obvious signs that fermentation is beginning. Bubbles develop and the fermenter begins to warm up…nice on our cool, foggy mornings! This is where things are with the estate fruit that was the very first to come in last week. We even had one tank with overflowing yeasty froth. The froth tastes like a spritzy sort of sweet, tart candy! We also started punch downs on the fermenters this week.

9:7image-2 copyAs the yeast begin to ferment the sugar in the juice, the grapes that are still whole rise to the top of the fermenting vessel pushed up by the yeast creating carbon dioxide. The skins on the top need to be kept moist to prevent microbial growth and to be sure to get all the color, flavors, and tannins desired from the grape skins. To perform a punch down you use a tool made of hollow stainless steel that has a dinner plate sized disc at the bottom of the handle. It also has two handles coming out the sides. You place the disc on the top of the skins and…push…until the disc breaks down to the looser, more juicy lower layers. This is hard work and sometimes you have to step on the middle handles to push it through the dense grapes. Then you pull it up, heavy with a layer of wet fruit from the lower part of the fermenter, and start over again, inch by inch, until the entire upper layer has been punched down and the top of the fermenter is all covered with wet grapes again. Initially this is done once a day and eventually it increases to four times a day. With all of our large fermenters now full, and many of our smaller ones too, punching down can take over an hour now. It can only be described as a labor of love!

Second Week….Harvest 2014

8-30-14image-2 copyAs predicted, the beginning of harvest week for us started with bottling all the 2013 Chardonnay.  As a small, family owned winery, most of the bottling is done in house and only very large lots require a bottling truck company.  We finished up in two days bottling nearly 500 cases of wine and we were ready for vintage 2014 to begin!

When determining when grapes are ready for harvest there are three major factors involved.  The first factor is the varietal.  Chardonnay and Pinot noir have a shorter ripening time than Cabernet Sauvignon, for example.  The second factor that determines the time necessary for ripening is where the grapes are planted.  Vines on slopes at higher elevations ripen more quickly than vines planted on flat valley floor or on slopes at lower elevations.  The last, and most definitive sign of ripeness and the date of harvest, is the winemaker’s decision.  Winemakers have many different parameters to consider in determining if a particular vineyard, or block of a vineyard, is ready to pick.  8-30-14image-1 copyThis is influenced by the sugar level and the taste of the grapes, the signs of physiological ripeness, such as the color of the seeds, and also by the style of wine he or she is making.  Sparkling wines are made from grapes that would be much too under ripe for making a bigger, bolder style of wine.

8-30-14image copyHarvest began for us on a foggy morning that turned into warm sunshine as it often does in these valleys.  The first grapes to come in were the younger vines of Pinot noir from the estate vineyard.  The next day it was Chardonnay from a neighboring vineyard.  In the Russian River AVA, things are ripening a week or so earlier than usual, probably due to the consistent warm temperatures for most of the summer.  Yields are quite high again as they were for 2013.  There is some speculation that this may be due to the drought, but no one knows for sure.  The Pinot was especially beautiful with perfect small, dense clusters.  Harvest is a lot of work, but it is an exciting time too!

First Week…. Getting Ready for the Harvest 2014

image copyMy life was good, maybe even perfect…but I got bit hard by the whole wine thing.  I was a happy, successful medical professional and I just couldn’t be satisfied with the answers to my questions given to me in the tasting rooms….oh, no…I had to learn more…had to know more.  Here I am, a middle aged woman, completing a degree in Wine Making doing an Internship at a Russian River winery…and this is how it goes…

Week 1 – What I learned:

  1. Preparations for harvest are as serious as the impending harvest.
  2. You have to get organized.  We spent all day, ALL DAY reorganizing the cellar.  We moved stacks of barrel racks, each carrying 6 full barrels of wine holding 60 gallons, outside.  We rearranged them, and then moved them all back inside.  This put all the empty barrels in one place, all the wine still aging in barrels at the back, and all the wine to be bottled soon, up front.  At the end of the day no one but us would have been able to tell the difference.  I thought it was gorgeous!
  3. Pressure washing is loads of fun!  There is a sort of POWER derived from pressure image-2 copywashing.  I pressure washed all day…I washed the destemmer, the filter, multiple fermenters of various sizes, holding tanks, and last but not least LOTS of FYB’s (fu#%ing yellow bins).  There is a reason they bear this name.
  4. Don’t put off what you can do today.  In the shadow of harvest it is not uncommon to bottle what you can bottle, as you won’t be able to do much of anything to older vintages once harvest begins.  The toddlers will be on their own for a few months.  To that end, we racked Chardonnay into tank, let it settle, lightly filtered it into another tank where it will wait for bottling next week.
  5. Harvest truly is right around the corner.  I was asked to pull a grape berry sample from the estate vineyard.  This involves walking down the vine rows and doing your very best to pull a random sample of about 100 grapes.  You want to pick berries from the top, middle, and bottom of different clusters as you walk down the row.  You can’t just pick the ones you would like to eat!  Once picked they are crushed all together and a sugar reading is taken.  It was close to being right where our winemaker wants it.  What does this mean?  We may be processing grapes right alongside all that bottling!

A Taste of Geyserville Tour – New Summer Tour!

An hour’s drive north from San Francisco, surrounded by miles of vineyards lies Geyserville, the perfect getaway escape.  It’s the gateway to the Alexander Valley, a California American Viticultural area, home to 26+ outstanding wineries. The town is rustic, the vibe casual…but don’t let that fool you. Serious wine and food happens here.

Tour Details

Price:  $49
Start Time: 11:00 a.m.
Available:  Thurs- Sun. by reservation only
Price Includes: All food, drink and tasting fees!
Duration: 2.5 hours.
Tour ends approx. at 1:30 p.m. however we have been known to have so much fun we might end a little later.
Starting Location: Geyserville Visitor’s Plaza Park at 10:45 a.m.
Group Size: 2 – 8 guests
We gladly accommodate larger parties. Please call us or send us an email.
Have Questions? Call us 707-758-4725

Locations

Tasting at 3 locations may include:

Mercury Wines
Ramazzotti Wines
Route 128
Meeker Vineyard
Locals Tasting Room
Catelli’s – California Inspired Italian
Diavola  – Pizzeria & Salumeria